Monkfish, mussels, saffron & fennel
The dish that most obviously belongs to this building: a fish that arrives whole, a fire, and a broth made from what is left.
Monkfish is one of very few fish that can take real, direct heat without falling apart. We buy the tails whole and on the bone, portion them thick, and cook them close to the coals so the outside takes colour before the inside is anywhere near done. Then they go higher and finish slowly in the rising heat.
The mussels are opened directly over the fire in a flat pan with nothing in it. Their liquor hits the hot metal, reduces in seconds and picks up the smoke — that liquor is the base of the broth, and it is the reason the dish tastes of this room rather than of a stockpot.
Saffron, fennel seed toasted in the same pan, a little cream, and the fennel tops from the garden. It is poured at the table because it should still be moving when it reaches you.
On the plate
- Monkfish
- Tail on the bone, cooked close then finished in rising heat, rested five minutes.
- Mussels
- Opened dry over the fire; their liquor becomes the broth.
- Broth
- Mussel liquor, saffron, toasted fennel seed, a spoon of cream.
- Finish
- Garden fennel tops, lemon, and the fish's own roasting juices.
To drink
Domaine la Cardère 'Grisant' — pale, saline rosé that does not fight the saffron.
The cellar listAldwin & Son
Landed at the quay
A single day boat working pots and lines. What they land is what we serve, which is why this dish sometimes is not on.
